So today was a day that may or may not have happened, depending on certain conditions. It was scheduled on our itinerary, then removed, then called "tentative." During the trip, we actually did get permission to go to the DMZ (demilitarized zone) and the JSA (joint security area) between North and South Korea. The experience's tentative nature was really based on recent interactions between North Korea and the rest of the world, our safety is the number one priority, after all. Although many worry about North Korea, South Koreans generally don't. There's no feeling of any danger at all in Seoul; maybe it's in the news every now and then, but life is as casual as it gets here.
The tour itself was definitely an interesting experience. We were led by a tour guide on a tour bus as it drove us to a few memorials and monuments on the way to the border. The tour guide was very friendly and lively, but also quite dramatic, as was most of the experience. We first stopped at a museum that had a large section devoted to the Korean war, and the feeling of propaganda was strong. Outside the museum there were many memorial plaques with the names of those who died in the war. Most were Korean, but there were also plaques for the 16 or so countries that also sent soldiers to help South Korea; the names of those international soldiers were honored in stone as well. There was one room inside the museum with a large video screen that showed images from times of peace to times of war, and ended with theatrical music and the message "freedom is not free" (I was too slow to catch a picture), which I found kind of creepy. There were also lots of models of weapons and machinery and rooms that simulated the feeling of battle.
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creepy injured mannequins |
There was a statue outside of two soldiers hugging, from a popular story around here describing two brothers. I'll paraphrase the tour guide's version a bit, but the story basically goes like this: one brother, the older one, was old enough to fight for South Korea. Although he was relatively young, he had to go because his family needed food. The younger brother was too young to fight in the war, but as it continued and tensions heightened, the armies began to recruit more people, and the young brother was recruited into the North Korean army. Some time later, the two brothers ran into each other on a battlefield, neither able to shoot the other. Instead, they dropped their weapons and just hugged each other, as the statue depicts. Stories like this are sad, but popular ones when talking about the war. It's definitely a very sad thing, and it may be hard to lose sight of all the losses.
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bad picture, only picture |
After lunch (bibimbap), we headed to the JSA, the Joint Security Area shared by North and South Korean soldiers. As we drove through, the tour lady shared many more stories of incidents and fights that led up to how the JSA formed and why it looked the way it did. One incident she described was the "Axe Murder Incident." Before the JSA looked like it did, there was a time when the divide between North and South Korea was more ambiguous, and North Korean posts were scattered between South Korean ones. The South Koreans had one post that couldn't be seen by the other South Korean posts because its view was obstructed by a poplar tree. The South Koreans tried to cut it down, and a fight ensued as the North Koreans opposed the action. Tensions rose and it eventually ended with the death of a few people, and I don't know the numbers but at least one person was killed by the axe, by a North Korean. Clearly, this story was shared with bias, but it is still interesting to think about and tells us why the border between North and South Korea, even in the JSA, is very clear cut today. There is a plaque as a memorial of the incident where the poplar tree was located.
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where the poplar tree stood |
As we drove through the wooded areas, the tour lady kept reminding us that there are landmines all around, which seemed a bit fake and dramatic, as did many of the things that she said. When we were able to get off the bus, she had to remind us of many things not to do, like point, laugh, stray from the group, or anything unnatural. Before the trip, we were also told not to wear anything with short sleeves, ripped jeans, skirts, shorts, and to wear collared shirts, which was a bit of an ordeal for everyone. At the JSA, not everyone was dressed to the code, and nobody seemed to care.
The JSA consisted of a few guardhouses and meeting rooms that straddled the border between North and South. It apparently is a misconception that the 38th parallel is what divides the two nations, and the tour guide told us that the real line is called the Military Demarcation Line (MDL), which more or less straddles the 38th parallel anyway. The physical border between the Koreas is between two of the buildings, marked by a concrete slab. I took a picture of it through a window. The soldier we were with was very strict about what we can and cannot take pictures of, and to be honest, it was hard to tell if it was just part of the fabricated drama or if taking pictures of trees was a real threat to national security. Our professor got yelled at for leaning on a table. Another person got yelled at for taking a picture at an angle that wasn't specified. The building we went in crossed the border, so I guess I stepped into North Korea for a couple minutes.
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a peek into north korea; a lady's camera and hands |
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a very important slab of concrete |
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if you look closely, there's a north korean man; not kidding |
All in all, the experience was just strange. We didn't know what to expect, and it was a little bit anticlimactic. We saw a building in North Korea, and North Korean trees and soldiers, and they looked like normal buildings and normal people. The scariest part of the experience was the giant bees that swarmed us when we were taking pictures at the border, and the angry military man that yelled when we faced the wrong way or sat on the table. It was also strange how commercialized the experience was, which just added to the feeling of fabricated theatrics. The souvenir shop sold JSA and DMZ shirts, for kids and adults along with camo gear from head to toe. They also sold North Korean liquor and wine and the regular gamut of Korean collectibles. There is also a Popeye's chicken just outside the border, along with an amusement park.
It was an experience that I think would be important to do once, but not again. We spent hours on a bus from about 9 to 5, only getting off for an hour or less at a time. You definitely get the feeling of propaganda, and it's just a strange but important thing to see in person.
I can't believe the experience is almost over. We only have about three days left in our official program, then I'll be on my own with three others just exploring Seoul (and revisiting shopping destinations). We have some more fun activities planned though, so I can't wait.
In Short - Where did we go? - DMZ, JSA